The romance of rice

"Nowhere in the world is rice so treasured and valued as in India... But the way in which the Moghul rulers in India developed its cooking and presentation was an art form,” writes Katy Dalal in her latest contribution to gastronomic literature, A Tribute to Indian Cuisine: Pulaos and Biryanis. The 180-page edition published by Vakils, Feffer and Simons Limited (Hague Buil­ding, 9 Sprott Road, Ballard Estate, Bom­bay 400001) packs 126 ways of dressing the staple fare for special occasions.

Mutton or mince, chicken, fish, shrimp, eggs or vegetables, there is something here for diverse tastes and requirements as Dalal has woven in the Indian cuisine of Lucknow and Hyderabad, Bengal, Karnataka and Kerala.

Even more valuable than the recipes are the little bits of advice in the introduction, priceless advice from her grandmother when Dalal herself was an eight-year-old noviciate but which is invaluable for all time to come: Foods cooked on a slow heat are tastier and the meats more succulent. Also, a covered vessel with water on the lid enables the food to cook faster, without burning.

She discusses the virtues of deep frying and shallow frying and the "dum” method where the vessel is sealed with a layer of fresh dough between the container and its cover to prevent the steam from escaping. Dalal also advocates that the vessel containing the concoction of rice and meat or fish, etc be placed not directly on the stove but over an iron tava (griddle) which sits on the stove.

To the harried working housewife Dalal advocates the virtues of the electric rice cooker. "You need not be threatened by having to face your husband’s friends for a meal or be frightened when you have unexpected guests. Armed with your rice and pressure cookers you will be able to conquer mountains. All your culinary worries will vanish and you will be able to bring joy to your family with this plethora of fabulous dishes, which once upon a time would have taken half a day to prepare.”

There is a list of major ingredients required for pulaos and biryanis which Dalal advises the would-be chef to maintain in the larder, including a variety of spices, nuts and dried fruits. And for the best results from the saffron — one of the most expensive ingredients which can sometimes prove disappointing in color and flavor — Dalal shows the way: heat it lightly, all over for about three minutes, then crumble it into half a cup of hot milk or water.

Dalal’s Pulaos and Biryanis was launched by social worker Homai Modi at the jam-packed Convocation Hall in the University of Bombay’s Fort campus on March 16, 2002. The book, priced at Rs 245 was offered for the special price of Rs 200 that day, a queue of eager cooks snapping it up.

Sharing the podium with Dalal and Modi were Bimal Mehta, the executive director of Vakil and Sons and director of Vakils, Feffer and Simons; columnist Mumtaz Currim whom Dr Nawaz Mody, head of Bombay University’s department of civics and politics and the emcee on the occasion, introduced as a renowned scholar in Islamic studies; Nilanjana Roy, author of Creative Cuisine of Bengal and producer of Behind Closed Doors, a film on battered women; Bombay Parsi Punchayet chairman Jamshed Guzder; award winning chef Nozer Iranpur and Jerry Kumana who according to Mody has a "unique talent for locating, restoring and making available old Chinese borders and garas.”

It was an appropriate setting to recall the historical implication of the Parsis’ love of food: "More than 1,300 years ago when Parsis landed, their way of conveying that they would assimilate in India’s cultural framework (was to add) sugar to a bowl of milk. (It was meant to convey) that the community will assimilate into the mainstream population, adding sweetness, richness, enlightenment,” said Mody, introducing Homai Modi, "(whose) record of activities is in accord with this promise.” Modi is the trustee-secretary of the K. R. Cama Oriental Institute (KRCOI) who, as Mody said, has metamorphosed that dormant institution into a vibrant one. Modi is also joint honorary secretary of the Maharashtra State Branch and the Bombay City Branch of the Red Cross and is a member of the University Senate as a nominee of the Governor of Maharashtra.

The first two copies of the book, fondly dedicated to the late Shirin Guzder, were presented to her husband Jamshed and their daughter Stetira Wadia.

Modi recalled her original surprise and that of the academia of Bombay when Dr Katy Dalal, an archeologist by training and a lecturer in ancient history at Bombay’s St Xavier’s College, initially took up catering on a large scale. Her first book Jamva Chaloji sold out in eight or nine months. The title reminded Modi of her early years when invitees at a wedding or navjote awaited the call "Jamva chaloji” before proceeding to the dining tables. Now the scramble begins before the wedding ceremony is over!

Appreciating the courtesy, graciousness and generosity of the Dalal family including Katy’s husband Feroze, daughter Freny and sons Kurush (also an archeologist like his mother) and Daraiyus, Modi recalled their readiness to serve at community events or at the KRCOI’s seminars and congresses at cost, oftentimes themselves hosting a ceremonial dinner.

As Mody said, "All of us are products of history and memories; (past examples) do much for us even if we all cannot emulate them.”