Palate pleasers

For whom the field beckons, Parsi-da- Dhaba is an inviting food station! On February 2, 2013, the eatery won the award of Best Roadside Dhaba in India for the year 2012-13 from The Foodie, Times Now television channel. The dhaba (roadside food places in India and Pakistan, located on highways and frequented mainly by truckers) was the fundamental building block of all restaurants, said Manjit Gill, corporate executive chef, ITC Hotels, while presenting the award at the ITC Grand Central, Parel. The difference between a dhaba and a restaurant is the physical structure around it, Gill added, "but the roots of all good eateries must be in good food and this award reflects just that.” Kunal Vijaykar, the Foodie and connoisseur of all cuisine, enjoyed at the Dhaba the siesta-inducing spread of marghi na farcha, kaleji papeto, damfuls (unique kheema pattice), palav dar, dhansak, bharuchi akuri, lagan nu custard and doodh na puff! Parsi food is a robust cuisine, observed food critic and author Rashmi Uday Singh who was one of the judges, and the Dhaba did justice to the "great cuisine of the community.” You must open Parsi-da-Dhaba in Bombay too, she told Urvaksh and Amy Hoyvoy.
"Parsi-da-Dhaba is on National Highway No. 8, between Talasari and Bhilad on the way to Udvada, Surat and beyond. Behind the Dhaba is a village called Varwada, where time seems to have stood still. The locals still make a living by farming rice, tuvar dal (lentils) and toddy. It is still untouched by construction or industry for miles around,” says Urvaksh who established the eatery in 2009 with his wife. Their Dairyland Parlour, which serves vegetarian fare, is just about 100 meters away. Situated in Thana (rural) district, Parsi-da-Dhaba has a water body nearby.
"Our customers are cosmopolitan and I cannot say that they are from any one community. Parsis, Gujaratis, Muslims, Punjabis… locals from Silvassa, Vapi, Sanjan, Gholvad, Umbergaum, Dahanu, etc are all often seen, enjoying the dhansak, beer, boomla and wine,” notes Urvaksh. "We recently launched the Takoro Bar (A Parsi Peg). We serve Frontier (northern) barbeques cooked in tandoors and open wood fires. People prefer the quiet, unhurried atmosphere.” With many Parsis becoming vegetarians and many Gujaratis becoming non vegetarian, change has to be the only constant! "Though we are predominantly a meat station, we do have an extensive vegetarian menu and I have taught all my cooks to make Parsi fare also for vegetarians. For example, we replace the mutton boti in sali boti with special paneer chunks. Even patra ni machhi is made with a slim slice of paneer and gently steamed with our famous chutney made with Kolah’s vinegar. There is delicious vengna no patio and many other vegetarian options.” Food from Dairyland Parlour can also be ordered and "will be happily served.”

The Dhaba is situated on the opposite side of the highway while travelling northwards from Bombay but "there is a U-turn available just a few meters ahead and those who like our food and those who believe this is the place to stop take that turn,” asserts the proprietor. "People travelling to Bombay from Surat and Ahmedabad make a beeline for the Dhaba. Recently, after we won the Foodie Best Dhaba award, many Bombayites are going there just to eat and drive back.” Travel has become fast and easy as the highway now has eight lanes and if you leave the city at seven a.m. you will reach by nine, he adds. "We have now put up luxury air-conditioned tents for overnight stay at very reasonable prices and the interiors will be completed soon. There is also a siesta tent room for free naps after a heavy meal.”
Urvaksh is the grandson of the late Nariman Ardeshir Hoyvoy who established Parsi Dairy Farm, the renowned bastion of dairy products and sweetmeats savored by Parsis and non Parsis alike, in 1916. Urvaksh parted from the firm in 2002 and started his own Dairyland Products which makes and sells dahi, paneer, etc through outlets in Bombay. Generations of the family have been foodies! "My father Naval’s mother Meherbai was an exceptional cook with a huge heart. She would make things like doodh na puff and falooda by the hundreds and send them to friends and family during the festive season. From my mother Taz’s side, great-grandmother Dinbai Dorabji Mistry, grandmother Perinbai Parekh and my mother are all great cooks – from jams, jellies, muramba and achar to Parsi, Indian and continental cuisine. My mother taught me to cook and appreciate cooking when I returned after completing an Associates degree in Business Management from the USA.” His late father too had taught him several recipes, "especially the mava tamota ma eedu, putting fresh mava in eggs, which only a doodhwala will think of!” he jests. "My mother-in-law Freny Hoshi Merchant is another fabulous cook, one of those rare ladies who can cook simple meals all through the week and then go grand for parties! And at the same time manage an office with the same panache, retiring as manager, Muscat for Air India. I say this as it is awesome to be so versatile. Most women like her go unsung.”
Urvaksh thanks his wife for helping him throughout and "for keeping the wood fires burning.” The couple has two sons who are foodies too! Armaan, 18, has his own recipes for milkshake and smoothies, omelettes and rolls. Azamaan, 15, "besides creating great musical melodies (it will be his vocation) makes superb desserts and brownies!” says the proud father.
Future plans include making Parsi-da-Dhaba a destination, with residential and conference facilities, etc. "Many Parsi clients lament that though Udvada is great, they cannot serve alcohol to their guests. We have the Takoro Bar at the Dhaba, so ‘cheers, folks!’” Parsi-da-Dhaba is to open soon in Bombay. "We will have a few tables and start tiffin services to offices and homes, initially only to folk close to our outlet,” he says. "It is an honor and privilege to serve good food and I thank everyone who comes to Parsi-da-Dhaba and gives us that opportunity to serve. I am grateful I was born into this gregarious community!”