A toast to the Todiwalas

The aroma of Mr Todiwala’s brand is relentless, infused with the dynamism with which restaurateur-chef Cyrus Todiwala stirs up the food and hospitality industry in London. In mid-June this year he earned a special award at the Craft Guild of Chefs function, considered a culinary Oscar. In mid-July he was referring to setting up "a brand new cafe called Mr Todiwala’s in the Park,” specifying that the new eatery will be at Victoria Park, the oldest municipal park in the world. "We are doing a pop up restaurant during the Olympics in the forecourt of the Greater London Assembly or the Mayor’s Office,” he further added. From dishing out menus to titillate heads of state to offering sauces and spices to enrich mere mortals, Todiwala is a name that is favored and savored.

Cyrus and Pervin Todiwala: competent and compatible chefs

In the last three years the other recognitions he has won are an OBE (Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, the title of deputy lieutenant of Greater London and the rating ‘Highly Commended’ for his restaurant Café Spice Namaste in the Sustainable Food Category of the City of London Sustainable Cities Awards. In fact Café Spice Namaste is listed amongst Britain’s top 100 restaurants announced at the National Restaurants Awards. His culinary fame having wafted across the breadth of London, he launched his second restaurant, Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen at the 350-room Hilton London at Heathrow Airport Terminal 5 in end 2011.

"I was invited by Hilton to bring for the first time in Britain a luxury Indian restaurant. We liked the beautiful ambience as also the very good parking facility at the new location,” Todiwala conveyed to Parsiana on October 7, 2011, it was the night of mah Ardibehest, roz Bahram when the cash registers started ringing. His well-wishers and loyal patrons Dorab and Shehnaz Mistry chose the opening night of Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen to play host to the overseas guests and the organizing committee of the Zoroastrian Trust Funds of Europe (ZTFE) that had successfully planned the function in honor of Prince Philip as part of their sesquicentennial celebrations. The Parsi diners could not stop gushing over the four-course meal that started with bhel puri and bheeda tamota per eedu and ended with lagan nu custard and rose and cardamom ice cream.

Todiwala himself was too exhausted to relish his own food saying that he had been up since 4.30 in the morning. Wife Pervin too had been on her feet most of the time during this demanding phase making 54-year-old Cyrus comment between yawns, "Pervin can’t work like a dog like me all the time.” Whilst initially he will be monitoring the new restaurant constantly, "Once the team is established, I will not be required,” he declared. When hiring kitchen staff he prefers to select individuals who "don’t show me a great deal of enthusiasm” for those who initially lack skills and "might look dim and slow are the ones who will be loyal, hard working and eager to learn,” has been his experience. Four of his staff members have in fact been with him since 1991 when he came to London, he appreciates.

Barring the imposing life-size wooden elephant sculpture that is the centerpiece of the dining area, the ambience and layout of Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen is meant "to make the guest feel at home” with meat safes, large jars and grandfather chairs serving as appropriate backdrop. Even the liquor is stored informally. Actually the cooking and dining area are just notionally compartmentalized for there is neither a wall nor a screen behind which the chefs and cooks could disappear. All preparations are made in full view of the customers.

Over the course of the last few months they have built up a reputation for offering exotic desserts like black pepper ice cream and stem of ginger ice cream. Mr Todiwala‘s Kitchen also boasts an Indian Tea Library with a changing list of exceptional boutique teas to delight the connoisseur and educate the novice. When one of their customers ordered Makaibari Estate First Flush Grand Reserve 2011 from Darjeeling, he was so impressed that he shared his experience on the Internet. He acknowledged that he got to learn that Makaibari is located at Kurseong, and was the world’s first tea factory, established in 1859 with Rajah Banerjee, the fourth generation, now being the owner. He was expecting a special cuppa, but to his surprise there arrived a tray laid with white linen and brandy glasses. The glasses were warmed over steam while hot water was poured over the chosen leaves in a handmade ceramic pot. The slowly trickling sand in an egg-timer showed the passing of a couple of minutes. Once the infusion was complete the light amber tea was served in the warmed glass!

Cafe Spice Namaste promotes food, education and entertainment

Besides Café Spice Namaste and Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen, the entrepreneur’s business interests include Mr Todiwala’s Spices and Pickles that offer a new line of connoisseur chutneys, pickles and stir-in sauces as also a range of sandwiches. "We are the only ones in the country to do meat pickles — venison, wild boar, beef, prawn,” he reported mentioning with pride the name he has earned, "The Svengali of Spice.” Their state of the art trailer, a mobile food unit, is popular at venues like the Lord’s Cricket Ground. They also undertake catering at different venues. The popular chef is the author of three books: Café Spice Namaste, India: International Cuisine and Indian Summer.

To the delight of community members, they introduced the Khaadraas (Greedy Pigs) Club where gourmands can enjoy a Parsi feast every six weeks at an all inclusive price of £ 29.95. Equally popular are their Adventure Gourmet sessions at Café Spice Namaste where demonstrations by Master Chefs promote their passion for food, education and entertainment. Plans are also afoot to extend Adventure Gourmet facilities to Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen. Appearing regularly on radio and television, including BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen and uktv’s Market Kitchen, Todiwala is a popular public speaker. Besides advising the government on its NHS (National Health Service) Better Food Programme he helps run a training scheme for young, up and coming Asian chefs. Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen will offer four apprenticeships in conjunction with the Academy of Culinary Arts. During the 16 years he has spent in London the other recognitions he has received are the Best Indian Chef in the UK, MBE (Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire), Culinary Honour of Merit Award from the World Master Chef’s Society and the BIB Gourmand Award from the Michelin Guide.

Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen at Hilton: an experience in fine dining

Neither honors nor monetary returns weigh heavily with Todiwala who still cannot forget the time between 1992-2000 when "the British government felt I shouldn’t be living in this country. According to them I was semiskilled and could not be trusted. The home office tried to throw me out. I was served several eviction notices. But with my persistence and refusal to give in, eventually things started happening. I was normalized in the country.” Remembering those "homeless, penniless days” when they had to shack in with a Maharashtrian and were "absolutely destitute with no money even to go home,” Todiwala acknowledges, "had Pervin not stuck to me I would not have managed. The extent of our suffering nobody knew; neither my family nor hers.”

Once the cloud lifted, he emerged "better, stronger…determined to succeed.” Committed to the Zoroastrian business values of "honesty, truth, simplicity,” Todiwala refers to his "dedication, hard work and detail to quality” that have paid dividend. "When you do everything by the book it is not easy to make money,” asserts the restaurateur taking pride in his refusal to do "any underhand dealings.” He though is content. "We do not evaluate our success by money and wealth and property… Our wealth is our family and friends and that is in abundance. Paisa aavsé (money will follow). It will come one day; no one can take it from me.” In the meantime he is gradually building up his food empire and investing his surplus income in the business.

Variety in spices and books that Todiwalas offer

He is among those considerate employers who believe "our staff come first and they need to be looked after.” As summed up Gina McAdam who is director of STRATEMARCO (Strategic, technical and marketing communications company), "We work with and for them…because we believe in their ethos and how they practice it themselves, in business, through their charity work.”

In the course of helping others celebrate, Todiwala has become a celebrity himself. His extensive knowledge, skill and expertise is tapped by different organizations. In June, television actress Nina Wadia joined Todiwala at Café Spice Namaste to cook dishes from their special "Curry for Change” menu to raise awareness and funds for the organization Find Your Feet that aims to improve the lives of poor, rural families in India. As Todiwala commented on the occasion, "There is poverty of the stomach but there is (also) poverty of the spirit, and persistent disadvantage and deprivation can do that to you. We are committed to helping, where we can, in our own small way, a charity like Find Your Feet.” He is also president of the Time and Talents Association, a charity based in south east London, and trustee of other social welfare organizations too.

Bombay born Todiwala has never forgotten his Indian roots. He had studied at the Railway Primary School in Neemuch [his mother Dowlat (née Jal) being the great-granddaughter of one of the business pioneers in Rajputana], Lady Engineer School and St Mary’s in Bombay, and Barnes School in Deolali. He went on to study Hotel Administration and Food Technology at Basant Kumar Somani Polytechnic at Sophia College against the wishes of his parents who were constantly mocked because their son had chosen to become a cook. His father Rustom was a foreman at Tata Power Station and was subsequently the first Indian to be employed by the Western India Automobile Association where he rose to become chief of road service. Upon graduation, Cyrus began his professional career with the Taj Group in Bombay where he met Pervin, also a trained chef. Cyrus and Pervin moved to Goa where Cyrus was appointed corporate executive chef overseeing Taj Holiday Village, The Fort Aguada Beach Resort and the Aguada Hermitage. In 1989 Cyrus decided to leave the Taj to help his friend Shahrookh Erani run the The Place, a restaurant in Poona, for two years before he migrated (The Place continues to be a popular eatery in Poo­na).

Overseas training that helped hone Cyrus’ talent was at the Geneva Intercontinental where he specialized in patisserie, at the Hilton on Park Lane in London where he learnt more about the art of Garde-Manger (the preparation of cold foods) and in Bangkok at the Oriental cooking school and the Siam Intercontinental to get an insight into Thai cuisine and help set up the Taj Group’s first Thai restaurant in Goa.

Leaving India for London in 1991 Cyrus initially ran the Namaste restaurant on Alie Street where he developed his hallmark style of blending traditional Indian culinary techniques and flavors with more unexpected ingredients. Café Spice Namaste was established in 1995 when entrepreneur Michael Gottlieb, then president of the Restaurateurs Association of Great Britain and owner of two Smollensky’s restaurants in London approached Cyrus with a plan for a new Indian restaurant. Today Café Spice Namaste is solely owned by the Todiwalas. Much to Cyrus’ delight, Pervin hopped on board in the late nineties, having raised two young sons. Both in their twenties now, elder son Jamsheed is interested in making a career with art and design in technology whilst Hormuzd wants to become an actor. Having seen their parents struggle they feel "hard work doesn’t bear any fruits.” When the boys seek financial assistance from their parents, "mom and dad say ‘sorry, we have no money,’” Cyrus empathizes with his sons. "They are extremely proud of him,” supplements Pervin hoping "they will join us after making it on their own.” Until then she is happy to indulge regular diners who come to their eateries twice or thrice a week and tell her to serve them what she thinks they whould enjoy eating!

To keep their young sons rooted in the community, the Todiwalas started participating in the activities of the ZTFE. "I am not overly religious,” declares Cyrus, adding, "I would feel naked without my sudreh-kusti. I am never ashamed of it. I am a ghélo (mad) Parsi. I can walk to the bazaar in a sudreh-lenga.” He fears though that with infighting and other conflicts "we are distancing our children and losing our youth. We are forgetting our youth are our future. I would like to safeguard the future of the community in one form or another.”

What does he plan to cook up next? Doing the Food and Wine Show in Durban, South Africa in August followed by the Food Festival in Wales and Spain in September, the super chef reveals, "I am a restless man. I will find something to drive me mad again.”