Food of the Festival

"It has been five years of delicious goodness, heady smells and fresh game changing food at the Kala Ghoda Arts Festival (KGAF),” says editor Nicole Mody of the book that "brings together the biggest names and brightest stars in (Bombay’s) culinary landscape.” A part of the Festival since the inception of the food vertical, and even before, as a "foodie who can’t stop experimenting with dishes I have tried,” Mody states in the author’s note that she agrees with Maya Angelou, American author, poet and civil rights activist that for her sharing food is a form of expression.
A tribute to Bombay’s much loved art district, the book gives a two-page history of the precinct, reviving old memories of popular eateries like Wayside Inn and Samovar which are no more, "but have left a legacy,” and includes new kids on the block like La Folie and The Pantry. The tome brings together 17 chefs and restaurateurs — "old favorites and young Turks alike” — who have contributed a total of 55 recipes, Mody tells Parsiana in an interview on February 11, 2016. She has prepared most of the dishes about three or four times. It was a tough job harmonizing the names of the ingredients and the measurements, she states. The book comprises two sections — restaurants and chefs in and around the heritage precinct and those who have participated in the KGAF in the past, and extends the boundaries of the area southwards towards Colaba and northwards to Ballard Pier and even Lower Parel! The contents page divides "the menu” into appetizers, mains, dessert and sandwiches.
Innovation is obvious in all sections of the menu, as is evident in Mushroom Tea, an appetizer which is a clear broth made with shiitake and button mushrooms, leek and white onions, credited to Cafe Zoe, the midtown restaurant. Another star is Rock Shrimp Leche de Tigre which is poached shrimp with a sauce made with coconut cream, white soy and xantham gum, from The Table, the restaurant that was voted Best Restaurant in India (Critic’s choice) in 2014 by Time Out. In what is a visual delight, the Pomegranate Molasses Salmon combines the pink of the fish with the ruby red puree of the fruit and sets it off with the white of sour cream and radish and green of asparagus. An interesting twist on the humble carrot cake is Grandma’s Carrot Patch, which is a soft concoction with a biscuit crumb base, accompanied by warm apricot marmalade, carrot cream cheese mousse and fresh lemon cream. The traditional Khubani ka Meetha (the Hyderabadi apricot dessert) emerges as Parde Me Khubani, covered as it is by a buttery pastry. "What cheat days are made for,” according to the recipe.

Nicole Mody

Parsi favorites like akuri feature under appetizers and Tamota Par Eeda under mains. Among the classics are Lobster Bisque from Indigo, which according to Mody, will make you "hear the sound of waves crashing on the shore,” and Grand Marnier Soufflé, a wonderful way to "show your Valentine that you care.”
The rear of the book contains a thoughtful glossary of ingredients and cooking terms, conversions and cooking times, and brief biographies of the contributors. Also included are recipes for basic stocks and sauces; a good idea to include them at the rear of the book, properly referenced, instead of cluttering up the main recipes. Look out for the innovative Rum Raisin Mustard Sauce.
The volume is lavishly studded with photographs of all the dishes, credited to Shiresh Karrale. Each recipe is also accompanied by sketches by Brinda Miller (director of the KGAF) of the respective restaurant from the precinct. Making the pictures come alive is the creative food styling of Roxanne Bamboat and Amrita Rana. Bamboat, co-curator with Mody, of the food section of the KGAF is "My partner in all things food,” according to Mody. Vicky Ratnani’s Portuguese Roast Chicken, which is very easy to make "and extremely flavorful,” is her personal favorite from the book, affirms the editor.
The efforts of Nicole’s husband Fram, who is credited in the book as "my most willing taster,” and Yasmin, her mother-in-law who was "invaluable in going over the text and picking out inconsistencies,” find mention in the book; as does Amy Madon, Nicole’s mother, "who is really my inspiration to cook.”
Paying tribute to the mosaic that is Bombay in the foreword, gourmet writer Vir Sanghvi, who also released the book on February 7 states, "The book does not just have (the city’s) recipes ... This is only right. (Bombay) has never been parochial.” Amen to that, even if that does not ring true always.