Beauty and the bride

Trained and experienced beauty professionals are commissioned weeks, months or even a year in advance to transform the damsels. It is expected that every bride wants to look distinguishable on her wedding day for she needs to stand out among members of her own family, her in-laws and the guests. It is predictable that the bride’s sister wants to improve her glamor quotient and understandable that the mother tries to keep pace with the latest trends. But equally remarkable are the grandmothers who have now started booking makeup artists for special events! And although unbelievable, males too avail of the pre-groom packages. The premium on good looks is even noticeable in little girls with special packages for the initiate and her mother for the navjote day.

"Now everybody wants a professional,” observes Prochi Bhada comparing the scenario to 1978 when she joined the field and it was "very rare” for most brides "never booked a make-up artist.” The trend started picking up in the 1980s and 1990s, states Hutokshi Dadabhoy who would get a list of the monthly bookings from the baugs and halls and mail a flyer advertising her services to prospective clients. During the wedding-navjote season "I would be booked every third day or so,” she recalls.
Of the seven make-up artists Parsiana spoke to, barring one, Aazmine Mandviwala, who has chosen to restrict her engagements currently after the birth of her daughter, the rest are booked at least 10 times a month during the peak season by members of all communities. Being Parsis they find is an advantage for Zoroastrian clients are more comfortable with members of their own faith after their nahan or purificatory ritual bath. Since weddings and navjotes are considered sacred religious ceremonies, it is expected that service providers in their menses will keep away from them.
When a bride opts for a professional make-up artist she is expected to reserve at least one and a half hours at the venue for the beauty regimen that includes makeup, hair styling and sari draping. She is therefore advised to complete her nahan earlier so that she can be ready in time for the wedding. There are some who choose to do their hair styling in advance and just symbolically sprinkle water on their head during the nahan. "But this is not right,” believes Bhada.
Trial makeup is a special service that Aban Ichhaporia (Cooper) offers so that once her service is booked, the bride gets a preview of the makeup and hairdo that will transform her features. For the hairstyle, most brides seem to opt for combinations of hair straightening, curls, bun and French knot, says the lady who has been in the field for the last 30 years.
Makeup artists who are booked months in advance are always willing to advise prospective brides on the sanitation and hygiene regime to follow, the moisturizers and nourishing creams to use… In fact Monaz Cooper of Kamal’s Salon has "four pre-bridal packages starting with silver and ending with platinum,” with ruby and gold in between. During the four to six months of the package, the bride-to-be is offered a variety of treatments: body spa, mani spa, pedi spa, body polishing, hair spa and hair treatment in the range of Rs 6,000 to 19,000. In fact, Cooper has now introduced a pre-groom package offering "luxurious, pampering service to the men” for Rs 7,000-8,000.

"There is always some distinctive feature that can be highlighted in every face,” believes Farzana Jussawalla who has been practicing for the last five years. By enhancing that feature even a simple face can be made pretty, she states, whilst sharing with us her credo: "Makeup is not only color, texture and cover; it is a tool of action which enables us to capture beauty from within.” With the use of Internet, she likes to keep herself updated "with global trends, new products, new colors of the season.”
A few professionals like the newest entrant Cherizeh Ghadiali are keen to support the brides who wish "to experiment and not be monotonous.” Requests and specifications also vary from season to season with the current favorite hairstyle being "leaving one’s hair lose with soft curls,” she states.
As compared to clients from other communities like Gujaratis, Marwaris and Bohris who like their loud make-up to match their dazzling outfits in gold and red, Parsi brides who wear lighter colored saris require make-up that is more subtle. Some brides specify the look they want to sport on their wedding day. For those who don’t, "I first ask ‘What are you wearing?’ and depending on that choose the makeup,” says Dadabhoy. She also understands the need to "dress them according to their age.”
Considering that some brides are insistent that their makeup should not be flashy, it is for the beautician to convince her that as the evening shadows lengthen and guests turn up closer to dinner time, the makeup is sure to fade after the innumerable rounds "of kotis (hugs) and kisses.”
From skin products like foundation and moisturizer, corrector and concealer, to makeup items for the lips, eyes and cheeks, to hair creams and sprays, beauticians and hairstylists use a variety of branded products, whether Indian, American or Italian as required by the skin tone and complexion. Amongst the brands popular with makeup artists are L’Oréal, Kerastase, Revlon, Lakme, Mac, Kryolan, Bobbi Brown, MakeUp For Ever, Illamasqua, Sephora, Urban Decay and Lancome. "Not every product suits every skin,” states Mandviwala.
Depending on whether the artist is commissioned to dress up only the bride or the bride and her family, the beautician may work alone or with her team. The bridal package for makeup, hairdo and sari draping may cost anywhere between Rs 6,500 to 25,000, depending on one’s choice of beautician, the socioeconomic status of the family and the venue of the function. For a function at the Jeejeebhoy Dadabhoy Agiary at Colaba, the beautician charges nearly double the rate of the service rendered at Allbless Baug. "For a priest’s wife, I have not charged anything,” says Dadabhoy who was happy to receive only a Parsi Dairy Farm boi in return for her services.

The family members of the bride or bridegroom are rendered this service at nearly half that rate. Dadabhoy remembers that her four-member team had readied entire families who had come from Calcutta and Lucknow. Since the family had booked Cama Baug, the first floor premises were used as a makeup studio. Whilst her associates worked on the family members, Dadabhoy focused on the bride. "The final touch-up for every lady goes through me,” she explains.
To save costs, some families call the beautician from one’s regular salon to doll up the line-up of female members but then feel the makeup is too loud or heavy. "The professional instruments that we use being really hot and really fast,” sometimes the better known beautician is consulted by a novice at the nth hour to control damage that may be in the form of excessive curls or a style not suiting a face. That is when years of experience and familiarity with the tools give an edge over the others.
On one occasion, a bride’s mother was so happy with Dadabhoy’s service that she presented her a Swarovski crystal rose brooch in addition to her fees. There have been occasions when clients have been disappointed too, she confesses. Whilst clients are entitled to show their appreciation or dissatisfaction, it is regretful that after availing of the preliminary services extended by the beautician, at the last minute she is told that her services will not be required, states Ichhaporia who specially travels from Ahmednagar where her husband is based to honor her commitments in Bombay.
Despite their patience being tested by fastidious females, "I always smile. I never lose my temper,” says Bhada. Members of all communities are "accommodative and cooperative. It depends on how you deal with your clients,” says Jussawalla who accepts assignments in Bombay, India or even out of the country. "My passion and love for the work I do,” helps bring in more clientele, believes Ghadiali.
A new trend that is catching on is a navjote package in the form of dressing up the little girl and her mother after the initiation. Using only light kids’ makeup for the daughter, the beautician spends more time on her hair, giving her a variety of small plaits interwoven with beads and florets. The mother is entitled to a hairdo, makeup and sari draping session for the package that costs upward of Rs 6,500.
Whilst innovations and artistic liberties are always welcome, Parsi brides are forewarned not to be too creative for one beautician recalls arranging for hand mehendi for a bride only to be reprimanded by the priest that it is not acceptable in the community. Some beauty lessons have to be rubbed in!