An oasis called Dubai
Much of Parsiana’s focus on overseas Zoroastrians has been on those in North America, the United Kingdom and sections of the East. The Parsis and Zoroastrians residing in the Middle East have received comparatively less coverage, barring a World Congress or some other major event. One reason is that Parsis in these countries keep a low profile. Aside from New Year dinners and the occasional jashan not much appears to be taking place. In many of these countries public worship of religions other than Islam may be frowned upon, discouraged or, worse, suppressed. In the past Parsis in the Middle East were apprehensive even of subscribing to Parsiana for fear of causing offense to the local authorities.
Thus it was a pleasant surprise to read in the article, "Diversity in Dubai" (see page 20) that the Dubai government has given 25,400 sq ft of land for a gurudwara in the Emirate. One thousand people are fed daily free of cost by the temple with the number swelling to 10,000 on Fridays. The generous grant of land to the Sikhs and the right to practice their religion freely is a manifestation of Dubai’s tolerance and acceptance of other faiths. After all, the Emirate’s population of expatriates consists of a diverse, multicultural and multi-religious group that has contributed substantially to the city state’s growth and development.
The sheikhs and others who graced the 9th World Zoroastrian Congress (9WZC) in 2009 did so to emphasize the receptiveness of Dubai to other faiths. But the Parsi organizers made it clear that controversial religious issues had no place at the conclave. They claimed the sheikhdom would disapprove. One had a suspicion this was not the real reason as the minuscule Zoroastrians pose no threat to any society (other than themselves)!
The organizers’ reservations stemmed from the traditional Parsi dislike of facing up to harsh realities, or of the need for change. The openness of the sheikhs contrasted with the inward looking approach of the Parsis. In Iran and Pakistan, surprisingly, Zoroastrian women have more rights than in democratic India whose constitution underlines equality of sexes. Iran permits Zoroastrian women to be priests while the Karachi anjuman allows the children of Parsi women married to non-Parsis entry to their fire temple, a practice also followed in Delhi though officially nowhere else in India. There are no female mobeds in India.
Despite Dubai’s premier position in trade and commerce (only Hong Kong and Singapore are in the same league), the more discerning residents and visitors bemoan the lack of a cultural heritage. Theater, the arts, dance, literary traditions are scarce. The Bedouin culture of old is lost. Giant skyscrapers and motorways have replaced the tents and camel paths. Other than dining, movies, shopping, socializing and a desert safari, there are few leisure activities.
At the Enterprise Dubai meet from December 19 to 21, 2014, some local residents spoke of the possibility of a Zoroastrian community center being set up. If so, it would be a great milestone, a return to roots for the Zoroastrians whose ancestors left or fled the Middle East either on account of religious persecution or an opportunity to trade. When the Reza Shah ruled Iran, many Parsis and Iranis flocked there in search of employment and business opportunities. Once the Islamic Revolution took place in 1979, the migrants fled. Subsequently, Dubai became the new magnet for Parsis. The holding of the 9WZC there was a historic event.
While Iran had also hosted World Congress in 1960 and 1996, there are not many Parsis who wish to venture to their madar vatan (motherland) in search of employment or business. The Iranian regime has been despotic and even tyrannical in the past, aside from being viewed as a financier of international terrorism and a surreptitious manufacturer of nuclear weapons. That image has softened in recent times but Iran has a long way to go before it attracts the kind of international talent Dubai does.
Saudi Arabia is also not a very attractive destination on account of the manner in which women are treated and the numerous restrictions on personal freedoms. Perhaps the wealth derived from oil permitted both Saudi Arabia and Iran to tread a hard line. Dubai, on the other hand, bereft of great oil reserves, has to rely on its resourcefulness to prosper. The speakers at Enterprise Dubai praised the Emirate’s "nimbleness" in trade, the absence of a bullying bureaucracy and flexibility.
The only drawback is that one cannot acquire citizenship or reside permanently in Dubai. As long as one has a source of income or wealth, or a sponsor one can stay. Once that changes, everyone has to either return home or migrate to the West. For nearly all expatriates, Dubai is a transit stop.
One can question why one should create physical infrastructure (a community center) if future residency is denied. As of now Dubai still draws Zoroastrians and in several cases the second generation continues to reside there. Many others venture abroad for higher education and may not return. But then why worry about the Dubai Parsi population’s future when the scenario in Bombay and other parts of India is so precarious? Like all members of a diaspora, Parsis have to take each day as it comes and make the most of every opportunity.
India’s main attraction is that it is a functioning democracy; the country’s constitution guarantees freedom and fundamental rights. But that freedom today is under threat from religious extremists. Some leaders of the Bharatiya Janata Party that govern the country have termed all non-Hindus illegitimate. There is talk of converting Muslims and Christians back to Hinduism (ghar wapsi), on the assumption they were Hindu to begin with. Newlywed brides who married Muslims and converted to Islam are physically assaulted as are the couples’ families. Text books are amended and altered. Academic books on Hinduism that do not find favor with zealots are banned or withdrawn from circulation. Movie houses showing films that are unpalatable to hardliners are vandalized. Art exhibitions and even art auctions have to either close down, shift venues or risk ransacking.
Observers claim these are not random acts by a saffron fringe but planned occurences supported by a larger section of the Party.
In such an environment Dubai stands out like an oasis. But one’s freedom is subject to the benevolence of the ruling families. If their attitudes harden, things could change overnight. Life is fraught with dangers wherever one may be. But if the Emirates and neighboring countries constitutionally grant religious freedom and an independent judiciary upholds the rights, the Zoroastrians in the Middle East may once again become a thriving, prosperous and joyous community.