Pleasing the palate

She started young. At 10 she would assist her mother in the kitchen, helping prepare Parsi delicacies for small orders from friends and family. Clientele for Aban Pardiwalla’s mother grew by word of mouth, noted Daily News and Analysis (DNA) in its edition of September 27, 2010. Ten years ago, on the passing away of her mother, a depressed Pardiwalla was coaxed by her surgeon husband Bomi to take over the role of chef and ever since she has been supplying not just Parsi food but much else from her Pedder Road apartment.

Pardiwalla claims her foodie husband is her "guinea pig” and best critic when she gets experimental in the kitchen. "Many memories of my mother are associated with that kitchen,” Pardiwalla informed DNA, indicating the space where she spends many afternoons working on elaborate dishes. "My mother always told me never to take a short cut. Don’t use a pressure cooker when you can sauté food on a low flame,” is one piece of advice she shares.

Pardiwalla recalled to Parsiana that when she first started out on her own in 1997 a friend Veera Patel was instrumental in helping her retail her patio through the PAC (Parsi Amelioration Committee) outlet. "She spoke to her mother-in-law who put up a proposal before the PAC committee” and that started the ball rolling, she acknowledges.

Aban Pardiwalla: experimental in the kitchen

"It’s not a catering service that I run. My vessels cannot hold food for more than 45 people. I love to cook and treat every order as if my own family were to eat it,” avers the 55-year-old whose repertoire ranges from creamy topli paneer made with imported non-animal rennet to pork chops in orange or wine sauce, pickles, desserts and assorted chocolates. Pardi­wal­la’s fast selling items include patra ni macchi, sas ni mac­chi, sali boti, dhansak. She also takes orders for spicy Goan vindaloo prepared with pork, mutton, fish or prawns, notes Mid Day of September 25, 2010. Pardiwalla’s readymade frozen, wet green, red and brown masalas have found a steady market, as have her popular tarapori patio (made from dried Bombay duck) and gharab nu achar (made from bhing roe from Bharuch). She also sends for vanilla pods to use in her desserts as well as garam masala for biryani from Coonoor, near Ooty, for their intense, enhanced flavor.

Pardiwalla has a strong aversion to set recipes notes Time Out Mumbai of September 17-30, 2010. The closest she came to following one was when she attempted making cheesecake, but even then she innovated, using topli paneer in place of cream cheese. "It’s the perfect substitute,” she informed Time Out, and considering the demand for this item her customers seem to agree!

Pardiwalla, who needs to be notified three days in advance, takes orders for parties from six to 50 persons. There is no home delivery. Sample rates are: topli paneer, Rs 200 per dozen, frozen masalas Rs 120 for 250 gm, tarapori patio Rs 100 for 250 gm, gharab nu achar Rs 180 for 250 gm, dry fruit pickle Rs 130 for 250 gm, meat dishes Rs 175 onward, fish dishes Rs 225 onward. Pardiwalla can be contacted at 23526179 or 9322277950.