Persian majesty

As one arrives in Tehran, the capital of the Islamic Republic (IR) of Iran and the land of our ancestors, a chill whiff of mountain air greets us to say "welcome home,” or perhaps a home away from home. Iran, formerly Persia, is a land of history and culture. It is the land of one of the oldest civilizations in the world where lie the roots of traditions and celebrations, Jamshedi Navroz being one amongst many, but of course, the most celebrated one.

Navroz, or Jashn-E-Norooz as it is called in Iran, is a very old and traditional Iranian festival of spring, which is celebrated throughout Iran and amongst Iranians all over the world. The name comes from Avestan, meaning "new day/daylight.” The festival starts at the exact moment of the vernal equinox, the onset of spring, which is considered the start of the New Year.

Iranians normally observe that exact moment of the turn of the year, even though the calendar still starts on the first day of Fravardin at 00.00 hours.

Traditionally at the turn of the year, the family members gather around the table decorated with the Haft Seen, which means seven items starting with the letter "s” in Persian language, and normally these items are more or less standard on all Navroz tables. However, in Old Persia the table was decorated with Haft Sheen, ‘sh’ being another letter in Persian.

The 13th day after Navroz is called "Sizdeh Bedar” meaning 13 outdoors. On this day normally people do not stay indoors, and they arrange picnics with family and friends in the lap of nature. At the end of the celebration on this day, the sabzeh (sprouts) grown for the Haft Seen table, is thrown back to nature in the belief of contributing to nature’s greenery or some throw it into running water to ward off evil. It is also customary for young single women to tie the leaves of the sabzeh prior to discarding it, symbolizing their wish to be married before the next Sizdeh Bedar, and while tying the leaves they whisper "Sizdeh bedar, sale deegar, Khoone shohar (Sizdeh bedar next year will be in husband’s home).”

Though the most important, Navroz is not the only festival Zoroastrians celebrate in Iran. Among the other celebrations, Jashn-e-Sadeh, Jashn-E-Mehre-gan, Jashn-E-Tirgan, Shab-E-Yalda and Chaharshanbeh Suri are celebrated the most.

Besides being a Zoroastrian pilgrimage destination, Iran has a rich architectural and cultural heritage, which attracts hordes of tourists from all over the world. This can be seen in the ruins of Persepolis and Pasargade, the seat of the Achemenian dynasty and an hour’s drive from the city of Shiraz. Here the classic columnar Persian architecture is seen with twin bulls supporting the roof beams.

Today Yazd is the major site for Zoroastrian pilgrimage, where a large number of Pirs or shrines can be visited. These Pirs have various legends associated with them. It is to this dry desert area that the Zoroastrians fled from the conquest of the Arabs.

Isfahan is called "Half of the World” where the Sio-Se-Pol or 33-arch bridge spans the Zayandeh river or Zayandeh Rood running through the city. It also boasts of some of the finest handicrafts, and of course the all-time famous Isfahan Gaz (Persian sweet).

North Iran including Hamadan is a scenic treat. The world famous Ali Sadr is one of the most wonderful water caves in the world. The majestic Caspian Sea has all the characteristics of a sea, though not connected to any ocean.

To the south of Alborz Mountain range and its magnificent peak, Dama-vand, lies Tehran, the capital of Iran, linked by excellent roadways to major cities of Iran. Tehran is the center of modern day shopping, boutiques, etc.

Iran is a place of history along with mystery, not only for Zoroastrians who visit their homeland, but for all, offering a visual treat to art and architecture lovers.

BAHRAM P. ZADEH

Poona