Cooper’s at the crossroads

The logo in red with a bow on the top left corner stretching into one vertical and one horizontal indefinite line on the swanky, three-tiered structure was unmistakably Cooper’s. Yet images and videos on social media of the hip and happening complex were viewed with disbelief. Reputed for the finest fudges and choicest chikkis, for decades Cooper’s had been operating from its one and only staid, unostentatious outlet opposite the Lonavala railway station, apparently unruffled by its competitors who were mushrooming.
"Is this the same Cooper’s that had a small shop in the market area?” enquired one customer as he surveyed the treats on offer. "Yes,” was the simultaneous response from Rashna Irani and her daughter Marzia, the third and fourth generation from the founder’s family, who could not conceal their pride in the new venture launched this year. They are irked though when customers who seek a confirmation on their connection with the original Cooper’s ask, "Are you genuine?” admitted Marzia.
As one enters the complex in the serene ambience of Ryewoods, a prominent sculpture of an asho farohar on a small landscaped island greets the eye, announcing the establishment’s Zoroastrian connection. The eye-catching structure that ends in a spire stands "on a half-acre property with space enough to park 40 vehicles,” Rashna informed Parsiana. The multiple entrance shop has a welcoming ambience. Salesmen attired in red uniforms stand behind the showcases displaying their trademark and newly introduced products with prices. A constantly changing LED screen too shows the products and prices while piped music plays in the background.

Rashna Irani (center) with son Kaizaan (l) and daughter Marzia

The recipes at Cooper’s that have come down over generations continue to be Rashna’s responsibility, while the new fudges, chikkis, loaves, pastries, chocolates and cookies are among Marzia’s offerings, having completed her cookery course from Le Cordon Bleu, London six years ago.
In its nearly 80-year existence Cooper’s has been best known for its fudges, or pak, as it was earlier promoted: kopra (coconut), kaju (cashewnut), chocolate and mango. Currently they make 12 varieties: walnut chocolate, almond chocolate, plain chocolate, hazelnut chocolate, kesar kaju, mango, coffee almond, caramel toffee almond, strawberry, apricot almond, coconut and kesari coconut, most of which cost Rs 1,600 a kilo. Hazelnut chocolate though is the most expensive, selling at Rs 1,800 and coconut, the least, priced at Rs 1,200. "Our walnut chocolate continues to be the most popular though hazelnut chocolate is also picking up,” mentions Rashna. "Parsi clients mainly want kopra pak,” she has observed. "They like their coconut.”
Among chikkis, there are 16 varieties with the one most in demand being kesar badam pista kaju (saffron almond, pista, cashew) sold at Rs 1,600 per kg as are the other favorites — badam pista, kesar kaju, pista. The newer varieties are: mixed nuts and cranberry, rose petal and cashew, oats and nuts, mixed seeds, malai. The humble groundnut and crushed groundnut are the lowest priced at Rs 500 per kg.
Currently on offer under the Markaiz brand (named after conjoining the first syllables from the names of Marzia and her brother Kaizaan) are the varieties of cookies, chocolates, loaves and pastries. "Everything in Cooper’s is pure vegetarian, eggless,” confirms Marzia. The cookies — butter almond, salt, cashew, coconut, chocolate dipped, and cashew — are in the Rs 300 to 400 range. Their six varieties of truffles on offer include walnut chocolate, hazelnut, French dark chocolate, mixed nut bar dark, mixed nut bar milk and almond crunchy priced between Rs 300 to 250 per box. Pastries sell for Rs 300 apiece and loaves for Rs 400. In the "Good for you” section are the healthy granola selling at Rs 300 and healthy crackers at Rs 250 per box.
While ready to answer the incessant customer queries, Cooper’s has a clear policy regarding sampling products. A prominently placed notice reads: "Our products are premium quality and we ensure utmost hygienic cooking standards. Different hands putting multiple spoons in our product might cause contamination and disturb the consistency of our product, hence we have NO TASTING POLICY. Please allow us to give you 100% quality and food safety. Thank you. Team Cooper’s.” Yet another reads, "For the sustainability of the waste management system please carry your own bag. If you want a bag, please pay for the bag. Thank you.”
Although the kitchen and the shop were on different locations in the market area originally, now the kitchen operations are centralized and conducted from their property at Ryewoods. Residing in a bungalow opposite Cooper’s at Ryewoods, Rashna starts work at 7 a.m., making and weighing the products. On their staff are 20 employees, some of whom have been working at Cooper’s for over two decades, yet Rashna prefers to oversee the manufacturing. "Mom weighs everything,” reiterated Marzia. The weekends being the busiest time, when there is maximum demand for Marzia’s cakes and pastries, she has to put in maximum hours of work in the kitchen a couple of days prior.
The premises at Ryewoods are open every day from 10.30 a.m. to 8.30 p.m., while the shop near the station remains closed on Wednesdays. At different times through the day, Rashna comes to the shop to liaise with the customers and keep an eye on the business transactions, sitting close by the cash counter, and in proximity to a large laminated photo of Zarathushtra and a Lladro artefact with a Zoroastrian motif.

The financial and budgeting decisions "only Mom takes,” revealed the daughter. Marzia related how she and Kaizaan, who has done his master’s in business administration from Podar College, were keen to promote the new Cooper’s on social media "but Mom was not in favor of paying other people (social influencers). She is thrifty,” Marzia lovingly chided her mother, a divorcee, who has been a single parent to the children. Currently, marketing and sales are considered Kaizaan’s domain.
Plans are now afoot to launch Markaiz as a multi-cuisine restobar, café and patisserie on the floor above the shop, "hopefully soon.” Awaiting official permits, they are reluctant to announce a date knowing that earlier some irate customers had expressed disappointment on learning that the restaurant that was due to open soon was yet not functional. "While there are lots of dhabas selling naans and Punjabi/Chinese food in Lonavala, there is no standalone eatery selling food like pizza and pasta,” pointed out Marzia who has been nurturing a dream to launch a restaurant on completing her Cordon Bleu course. At the restaurant that will have 120-150 covers, non-vegetarian food will be served.
Depending on its success they may start an exclusive vegetarian restaurant on the second level, and at a later date open up their terrace for banquet functions. Having bought their plot of land from Sheriar Irani (one of the brothers who owns Wibs bakery in Bombay), Rashna and the children are delighted that architect Bomi Irani has created a significant landmark for Cooper’s with space enough to keep expanding.
Earlier a teacher at St Mary’s School in Dahanu, Rashna joined the family business nearly 15 years ago, assisting her mama (mother Ruby’s brother) Hoshi Irani who was managing the business single-handedly after the death of his cousin Khurshid Cooper, daughter of the founders Noshir and Jer Cooper. The Cooper family initially ran a tadi nu pithu (stall selling toddy) in Lonavala in the 1950s. Later, Noshir who had excellent knowledge of cooking built a reputation for himself, making fudges and chikkis, according to the history of the Lonavala-Khandala Parsi Zarthosti Anjuman compiled by Maneck Shroff. It was Noshir who had organized the first Anjuman annual dinner. Jer’s brother Rusi Irani (Rashna’s maternal grandfather) used to assist the founder couple in the early days of the business. The second generation to run the business was Khurshid and Rusi’s son Hoshi. Following Hoshi’s death, Rashna has been holding the fort until her children joined her. Among the trophies and certificates won by Rashna that are prominently placed around the new shop, one shows her as the recipient of the National Women Excellence Award conferred by The National Academy for Art Education in Poona.
Twenty-nine-year-old Marzia and 24-year-old Kaizaan are all set to carry forward the Cooper’s brand while simultaneously promoting Markaiz that was launched on Jamshedi Navroz this year. Markaiz though is not the only infant being nurtured. Marzia and her husband Praful Chowdhary who runs a boutique hotel, Le Papillon, in Lonavala on the Old Bombay-Poona Highway, have a son Zaayn who just completed his first birthday. "Zaayn means beautifier,” states Marzia who was keen that the son bear a Parsi name with his Hindu surname. "She has decided to have his navjote performed,” added Rashna.
Visiting the fire temple is important for the family. While the old shop stands at a distance of less than a kilometer from the Adenwalla Agiary in Lonavala, and the new premises at a distance of two kilometers, although in different directions, for anyone confused regarding the location Rashna advises, "We are there on Google maps.” Having once located the Cooper’s complex, customers are happy to keep returning for it is conveniently located on the bypass road leading to old Khandala and thence to the Expressway.