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Parsiana
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Tradition

Par-sea day

By Text and photo: Kainaz Amaria · May 7, 2010
Coconuts. Blazing colored saris. Parsis gathering together in prayer. And the water, who can forget the water? I recently experienced my first Avan mah, Avan roz in Bombay. I grew up in the USA and was naive about what Parsis did to pay homage to Avan Arde-visurbanu, the deity of the waters. So I woke up before dawn, took my camera, and headed towards Marine Drive. I was a bit nervous for I had never witnessed this ritual before. And with no one by my side I had to rely on someone there to explain to me what to do.
Almost immediately upon my arrival, a kind gentleman noticed the bemused look on my face. Coconuts, dar ni pori, flowers, incense, I didn’t know what to do if I purchased these items. He allowed me to observe the way he personally worshipped the water. He stood atop the stone rock, faced east, did his kusti, then faced the sea and continued to pray. It was a sight which was novel to me. I had never seen a Parsi pray in public.




Morning photographs taken on Marine Drive across from the Taraporevala Aquarium; humbandagi at Bhikha Behram Well and jashan ceremony at Radio Club



One after another I witnessed worshippers conducting their own personal rituals. Mothers and fathers taking their kids to the edge of the water to toss a flower. Women sitting along the sea gently gripping a prayer book. Teenagers in sunglasses and scarfs walking their elders down the wet stone steps to gather a bit of the seawater.
People walked by with the same bemused look that I had on my face when I first arrived. Many would stand and stare. Others would muster the courage to ask what was happening. Parsis would proudly answer and explain. I stayed for hours watching for the first time Parsis worshipping in public.
It was refreshing to see members of the community proudly sitting along Marine Drive whispering prayers as they looked out into the sea. I closed my eyes and took a deep breath. Paused. Listened. Felt the morning kiss of the sea breeze. Whispered a prayer, and created my own personal Avan mah, Avan roz ritual.
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