Failings and progress

The main purpose of any Parsi’s visit to Udvada is to pray at the sacred Iranshah Atash Behram. Winters in Udvada are always pleasant. Mornings are quite cool and for the rest of the day we enjoy mild sunshine, bright blue skies and a light breeze, especially during high tide.
Very early in the morning there comes an elderly vendor through the village with a big can of neera, the sap of the date palm before it ferments and becomes toddy (taari). This elixir of life is naturally cold and sweet and very nourishing! Another sight that greets one is that of the local people carrying trays laden with glasses of doodh na puff, a combination of sweet whipped cream and milk, to sell. This is utterly irresistible!
Udvada has many enterprising young people who have set up their own stalls and carts selling snacks, tea and even Chinese meals! They provide a service, make an honest living and do not drink their lives away. Yes, alcohol is a real problem in this "dry” state, and there seems to be no solution in sight. Those who are addicted soon pass away, leaving behind young widows and small children.
These days there is a lot of construction work going on in Udvada Gam (village). New blocks of flats are coming up. The traffic has increased considerably and there is an absence of proper speed breakers. Two and four legged pedestrians have to move cautiously. The streets are littered with debris and rubbish, the beach is filthy and cows hunt for food all day long in this muck.
But there is some good news. Not far from Udvada, near the village of Palsana, one of the largest religious fairs in Gujarat occurs for three days during the festival of Mahashivratri. Devotees from near and far congregate at the Shiva Temple for prayer, after which they visit the fair to shop and enjoy themselves. Stalls sell everything, from toys to household goods, clothes and eatables. For the more adventurous there are four ferris wheels and various exciting rides. Families come to celebrate. The crowds are huge, yet there’s almost no jostling or pushing. Everyone is well behaved and cheerful. When asked how this is so, they say, "Well, this is Gujarat!”
More good news: Udvada has three new ventures which started recently. On the main road, close to Jhanda Chowk (Flag Square), we find Frohar Lodge, set up by the Bombay-based Frohar Foundation. The other one, close to Irani Bakery, is the WZO (World Zoroastrian Organisation) India - Bharda House, founded by the Bombay based WZO India. Both lodges/inns provide boarding and lodging for Parsi pilgrims at reasonable rates.
And last, but not the least, Udvada Gam now has a branch of Axis Bank, on the ground floor of Irani Complex, next to Henni Stores. This brand new branch has a staff of competent, helpful and friendly young men, most of whom are local residents. The branch was inaugurated on Bahram roz in the presence of some of the priests of Udvada.
ABAN BANA
abanbana123@rediffmail.com