Unlocking family secrets

It all started one hot day in May, three years ago. Delhiite Shelley Subawalla (née Daroga), a mother of two and a brilliant cook, egged on by her friends and family, finally decided to go commercial. Armed with valuable lessons learnt from her beloved maternal grandmother Zarin Gimi, Subawalla decided to follow her dream.
She made a few packets of masalas that she regularly used in her own cooking and put the word out that she was taking orders. She made a simple start with Parsi dhana jeeru (coriander and cumin seeds), Parsi sambhar and curry masala … everything was made to order. Her packets were neatly sealed and labeled with a little help from her son Anosh who created some bright red and gold stickers for her, with "Zarin’s Secrets” boldly printed across them. And overnight, Subawalla was in business. Word spread like wildfire and so did her range of products, from masalas to achaars (pickles), and even delectable bhakras.

Range of spices marketed under the brand Zarin’s Secrets

Shelley Subawalla

Her aim in starting the business was twofold: "Firstly, I wanted to do something to honor the memory of my grandmother. She taught me how to cook and shared with me her recipes passed down to her from her mother. She was a wonderful lady who believed in always helping others and putting them before self. I have yet to meet a stronger, wiser, more compassionate woman.” Persistently approached by friends to feed them dhansak, Subawalla’s second reason to start Zarin’s Secrets was "to show the world that Parsi food is extremely easy to make and isn’t as unapproachable or exotic as they perceived it to be. It is simply good, delicious, wholesome food with a different taste that sets it apart from all other food groups or cuisines.”
Surprising as it may seem, Shelley says she did not know how to cook till she tied the knot with Jimmy Subawalla, who is a director at Selvel Media Services Private Limited, an outdoor advertising company started by her maternal grandfather Rusi Gimi. When she turned to her grandmother for help, Zarin, who came from the Jila family in Calcutta, famed for its cooking traditions, taught her everything. Zarin worked tirelessly with her husband Rusi, both in the office and his extensive social work projects, while bringing up a family of three girls, Frenny, Prochy and Tehnaz. Very family oriented, she fit the epithet: a disciplinarian with a heart of gold.
Shelley grew up in Delhi and completed her BA from the Delhi University, followed by a diploma in sales and marketing. "Most of my adult life has been spent in marketing jobs,” says Shelley who took a sabbatical from work to raise her two children Anosh who is now 18 years old and Sharmeen, 10. "I started Zarin’s Secrets once my children were old and capable enough to manage on their own,” says 42-year-old Shelley. Having lived in Madras, Calcutta and Bangalore, all places where the Parsis are meager in number and Parsi customs and food arouse great curiosity in the local populace, she says that in spite of her cosmopolitan surroundings they have always largely made Parsi food at home mainly because it is simple and delicious. Parsi dishes are easy to make once the masalas are ground and ready. This is the tedious part as some masalas can include up to 15 different ingredients.

Professionally packaged hampers promote Zarin’s Secrets

Zarin (l) and Rusi Gimi

As the orders started pouring in, Shelley grew more adventurous and tried out a variety of new recipes, some very willingly shared by her friends from their own family traditions. She has a large repertoire of masalas and pickles (dhansak, garam masala, curry masala, to name a few ranging in price from Rs 300-325 for 250 g). Her favorite, she states, is vindaloo masala (Rs 325 for 250 g), which is based on her mother Frenny’s recipe. Her list of chutneys and pickles is extensive; ranging from the hot favorites kolmi nu achaar, gaajar meva, limbu, chundo to sweet murabbas, and even fresh green chutney. Prices range between Rs 350-650 for ½ kg. Bhakras that melt in your mouth are available only on order. A packet of 20 pieces costs Rs 320.
In the winter, small packets of vasanu (Rs 1,200 per kg) are also lovingly prepared. Shelley now has a large clientele, which include a wide variety of customers including Ciclo Café, which has restaurants in Bangalore, Madras and Hyderabad and is hoping to link up with The Indian Parrot, an artisanal products store in Indore. Well packed and professionally branded, she ships her pickles and masalas not only in India, but also to Europe, America and Australia. Her masala packets also include recipes on how to make those dishes. She creates masala and pickle hampers on order as well, going the extra mile to customize masalas when she is informed of allergies.
The success of Zarin’s Secrets is not only in the growing customer and product base but also in the recognition Shelley has received for her venture. Awarded the prestigious Women’s Economic Forum (WEF) — Exceptional Woman of Excellence award in September last year, she was featured in Women at Work, September 2017. In November last year, the same magazine, at their "Made By Her” conclave held in Poona, felicitated her. She also received the Star Awards 2017 for Early Stage Business. Subsequently, she has been written about on online sites like "She Means Business,” "We Are The City” and "Índus Divas.”
When she started out three years ago, her popularity grew purely through word of mouth. She often took up stalls at bazaars, fetes and exhibitions. But it has been social media that has given Zarin’s Secrets a big boost. She has a Facebook page, created by an insistent friend, and Instagrams and blogs under the same name as well. She is currently working on her own web page.
Assisting her in her venture is her cousin Sanaya Mehta Vyas who has used her artistic talents to create beautiful visuals and digital material which helps publicize Zarin’s Secrets. As Zarin’s Secrets is all about nostalgia, family and tradition, it is only fitting that two of Zarin’s granddaughters bring alive her legacy.
Zarin’s Secrets has also brought out another facet of the multitalented Shelley. Her foray into blogging has revealed her hidden talents as a writer and given her a new passion to pursue. She has an active blog — Zarin’s Secrets. This is a forum for her to deliberate about the importance of food in our lives, and its interdependence and links with family, traditions, community and culture.
"Being a Zoroastrian, for me, is a matter of great pride,” says Shelley, daughter of Frenny and Rustom Daroga. Endeavoring to raise her children "as proud Zoroastrians as well,” she is happy that both of them have been attending the Farohar children’s class in Delhi that imparts knowledge on the Zoroastrian religion and its heritage and traditions. "I love the uniqueness of our religion and community and our modern outlook toward life. Like all Zoroastrians, I too am worried about our dwindling numbers and sincerely hope certain progressive steps are taken to increase our ‘tribe’ and expand our mental and somewhat rigid outlook in certain situations. We need to step into the future with confidence,” she believes.
Planning to bring out a recipe book with a twist soon, Shelley is also looking into licensing to enter the world of retailing to make Zarin’s Secrets even more accessible. She states, "My hope is to take Parsi food into every kitchen of India today…and the world tomorrow.”
Subawalla can be reached on ssubawalla@hotmail.com or +91 9810590569.