"Food of the Gods"

‘Welcome to the ultimate dessert destination,’ proclaims the menu card of Theobroma. If your taste buds have been sufficiently tickled, make a beeline. If you’re too lazy, call them up on 56292929 for free home delivery, provided you live within a reasonable distance. The Messman family owned eatery at Cusrow Baug in Colaba is gaining in popularity. "Feeding people has always been our passion,” says Kainaz Messman, 26, the young and attractive daughter of Kamal and Farokh.

The original concept for Theobroma was that of an exclusive patisserie. However, the Messman think tank eventually decided to add light snacks like sandwiches, quiches, savory pies and patties as a prelude, so to speak, for the main attraction; the scrumptious desserts. The chicken patties, very reasonably priced at Rs15 each have, in fact, become a hot selling item.

The prime focus is on cakes, breads and desserts. Apart from consistent quality, Theobroma’s strong selling point is the innovation displayed in the variety of desserts laid out on the counters. If you are tired of the usual black forest pastries and lemon tarts, this is the place to visit. ‘Tiered Temptation’ (three layers of different chocolate), ‘Irish Cream Mousse’ cake, an unusually flavored Mint Chocolate square, the sinfully rich chocolate Risky Rider served on a bed of hot chocolate with ice cream on top and ‘Kahlua Nougatine’ are some of the unusual delights on offer. Not to mention some acquired tastes like ‘vodka and green chili’ pastry. During the festive season, Christmas cake and Christmas pudding are much sought after. "We soak the dried fruits in brandy and rum a year before preparation,” explains Kainaz. "We prefer to focus on quality rather than quantity,” insists Kainaz.

Kainaz with Kamal (seated) and (inset) Farokh

Another specialty is typically French style croissants, for which Kainaz specially trained for several months at a patisserie in Paris. They are soft and flaky and available plain and with seekh-kabab, chicken and cream cheese fillings. Even that old staple Danish Pastry acquires a new look with exotic fillings like walnut caramel, cream cheese with fresh herbs and varieties of fruit. With nine varieties of bread, as well as tarts, cookies and biscuits, Theobrama is remarkably versatile for its small size.

And then, of course, are the flagship Theobroma brownies; chocolate chip, chocolate truffle, espresso, marble (a blend of chocolate and coffee) and the hot favourite ‘Millionaire’ brownie with a soft caramel centre and truffle chocolate.

"Mom has in one way or another been associated with food for over 20 years,” says Kainaz. "She started out supplying fast food to businesses and stalls owned by MAFCO, among others. Then, about 10 years ago, she started concentrating on brownies and this expanded into a passion for all desserts. We still supply brownies to many first grade restaurants and even to corporate clients.”

The fray into brownies commenced when a neighbor, then pregnant, conveyed that she was longing to eat good brownies, recalls Kamal with a laugh. After indulging her neighbor she was inspired to continue.

Part of the eatery’s popularity stems from the constantly changing varieties of cakes and desserts on display. So where do the owners come up with these innovative ideas? Explains Kainaz, "Whenever mom or I travel abroad, we make it a point to frequent the pastry shops and talk to the people behind the counter. They do not reveal actual recipes, of course, but you can get a fairly good idea by just listening carefully.” Other sources of inspiration are trade magazines, specialty videos and the internet.

When asked how they came up with the name Theobroma, Kainaz explains that the literal translation from Greek is ‘Food of the Gods,’ as displayed under the eatery’s name on the elegant sign at the entrance. However, the emphasis has always been on desserts, notably cakes and pastries. Kainaz goes on to explain, "Theobroma cacao is, in fact, the botanical name for the cocoa plant, the source of all chocolate.” In ancient times, cocoa was consumed as a drink and could only be served to the nobility. "Of course, our desserts are fit for royalty,” she adds with a twinkle.

Every food item available at Theobroma is prepared in-house at their central kitchen located nearby. The kitchen is clean and hygienic and employs around a dozen chefs and helpers, according to Kainaz. All the chefs have been personally and meticulously trained by Kamal and Kainaz. As far as possible, all ingredients are sourced fresh, claims Kainaz. "We believe in providing value for money. Above all, every customer should go away completely satisfied and wanting more.” Desserts are reasonably priced, ranging in price between Rs 30 to Rs 60; certainly higher than Monginis, say, but quite economical when compared to similar offerings in five-star hotel pastry shops.

"Theobroma is the creation and pet project of the Messman women. I hardly do anything except look in on my way to work and get in the way,” says Farokh a textile engineer by training, who owns the K. A. Malle Pharmaceutical Company at Ankleshwar.

While Kamal’s culinary talents are "homegrown” Kainaz has a diploma in Hotel Management, as well as a postgraduate diploma in Kitchen Management from the Institute of Hotel Management, Catering Technology and Applied Nutrition and has worked for three years in the kitchens of the Oberoi hotel group. Sister Tina Wytes is a chartered accountant, married and living in London. Though not directly associated with the business, she nevertheless offers valuable advice on business planning and expansion plans and comes down to Bombay twice a year. Kamal though is the inspiration and guiding spirit behind the enterprise.

Disappointed with the trend of prominent Parsis regularly and increasingly washing their dirty linen in public, Farokh refers to the regular WAPIZ page in a city eveninger as an example. He strongly felt that disputes and differences of opinion should be settled privately and in a dignified manner, perhaps by setting up a panel of eminent community members.

He is not in favor of conversions of those not born into the Zoroastrian faith. However, Kainaz felt that excluding from the faith children of Parsi mothers married to outsiders smacked of discrimination and double standards. If at all, the same rule should apply to Parsi men married to non-Zoroastrians she said.

Kamal has more strong views on the subject of women’s emancipation. "Every woman in this world should be able to stand on her own feet irrespective of what her husband may earn. It is important for her self worth and self image” and gives her the necessary confidence to face life. "Unfortunately not many in the community are branching into business,” observes Kamal. When she started on a small scale from home, she was "ruling the roost.” With the starting of the eatery arose the problems of getting the necessary clearances – from the municipality, water department…

Inaugurated just one and a half years ago on Dussera in 2004, as Theobroma’s fame spreads by word of mouth, tables have to be squeezed together to accommodate the growing crowd, forcing one to negotiate a twisted maze to reach the pastry counter.

If Theobroma has one drawback, it is in the small and cramped premises – and the Messmans are keenly aware of this. Plans – not yet finalized – are afoot to open a similar establishment in another location; and then take it from there. Personal supervision could be a problem with multiple locations, admits Kainaz. "Mom and I believe in a very hands-on approach,” she says. "For us, this is not just a business, but a labor of love.